Back in the 9^th Century, when the pilgrims began, the walk would begin from your home and end at Santiago de Compostela, however, a series of distinct routes have since emerged, and formalised over time.

Now you can start from Seville in the south of Spain, the middle of France, Portugal, or the most popular route of all – The Camino Frances (The French Way) which begins just over the Pyrenees into France, a St Jean Pied de Port.

Your experience will be different depending on what route you take, of course, however, the constants of the Camino seem to be immersion into a historic world of churches and cathedrals, ancient agricultural landscapes, wonderful regional cuisine and a shared sense of mission with your fellow pilgrims.

Whatever your reasons for walking, the destination is the same, and there’s a friendliness and camaraderie that feels unique to the Camino. Stories and walks shared. The journey made richer.

According to scripture, James was one of Jesus’ first disciples, and after Jesus died he travelled to the Galicia region of northwestern Spain to preach the word of Christianity.

This area was accepted by the Romans, at the time, to be the very edge of the known world, so you could surmise that James was trying to get as far away as possible from the powers that crucified his lord, and by all accounts he should have stayed there.

Local tradition has it the Virgin Mary appeared to him on the banks of the Ebro River, prompting him to return to Jerusalem where he was promptly beheaded by King Herod, becoming the first disciple to be martyred.

He obviously made an impression during his time in Spain, as his body was ceremoniously wrapped, carefully transported by boat and then overland to what eventually became Santiago de Compostela – which translates to St James of the Field of Stars.

The first pilgrims to the site can be traced back to the 9^th Century, however, it grew in popularity and by the 11^th Century, people were crossing the Pyrenees to visit his remains.

By the 12^th Century there were even more visitors, encouraged by a document called the Codex Calixitus which is recognised as being the first-ever guidebook.

Interesting side note:

The codex was found in the archives of the Cathedral at Santiago de Compostela in 1886 and displayed until it was stolen in 2011. A year later it was discovered in the garage of a Cathedral employee, along with 2.4 million Euros from the collection boxes!

The black plague, the emergence of Protestantism and a series of wars and political unrest whittled away the number of pilgrims until the 16^th Century, when it was a seldom travelled route indeed.

It wasn’t until 1987, when UNESCO bestowed world heritage status on the walk that it began to attract greater numbers again. Since then it has gone from strength to strength, inspiring hundreds of thousands to walk the Way of St James, once again.

The Kumano mountains are home to a wide array of exotic and beautiful native species. The most prolific being the mighty cedar tree, which can be found all over the mountains and valleys, creating atmospheric forests to get lost in, or to find yourself in.

Japanese Cedar Tree Cryptomeria japonica

An extremely fast-growing evergreen that can reach up to 100 feet high and 30 feet wide, and live to be 600 years old. They emanate a pleasant pine scent, and they’re insect repellent – which is also pleasing.

Their trunks grow tall and straight, and the wood is waterproof and light so they’re often used for building. In fact, that’s why there are so many of them all over Japan.

The Government embarked on a massive reforestation effort after World War II, and even today, of the 62.3 million acres of forest in Japan, over 10 million are cedar forests.

Japanese Black Bear Ursus thibetanus japonicus

Although Kumano literally means ‘Bear Field’, it’s extremely unlikely that you’ll come across a bear on your walk as there are very few left. In fact they’re listed as vulnerable on the endangered species list.

It is possible though. The Japanese Black Bear tends to live in forests and mountains, although they’re not too keen on Cedar’s as they don’t produce any nuts for them to eat.

They’re black, of course, and have a distinctive crescent moon of white or silver across their chest. And they’re vegetarians most of the time, however will happily take a swipe at anyone who gets in their way.

Some people wear little bells to warn them off, however we’re not entirely sure that’s reliable advice. Best to stay aware, and stay out of their way if you see one.

Japanese Giant Hornet Vespa mandarinia japonica

If you spot a Giant Hornet you’ll know about it. Coming in at three to four centimetres, the aptly named Giant Hornet isn’t the largest hornet in the world, but it’s pretty close.

Their sting, particularly because of the amount of venom injected, can also cause anaphylactic shock if you’re allergic.

The good news is that they’re not interested in human beings at all, however they’re territorial so if they think you’re invading their space, they‘ll chase you away rather aggressively.

If you see one, or a few, simply turn around and walk away. If you run or wave your arms around, they’ll think you’re a danger, and they’ll go after you at speeds of up to 25mph!

Like most wild animals, they’re not something to be concerned about unless you bother them. As any Australian used to walking the bush will already know. See a snake? Turn around and walk away.

Just leave the Giant Hornets alone and you’ll be fine. If you are prone to anaphylactic shock however, we’d recommend you take an epi pen with you, just in case.

Tanuki Nyctereutes procyonoide

Also known as Racoon dogs, although they’re not actually related to Racoons, Tanuki are sociable little animals that live in pairs, or small groups. They live in burrows and come out at night to forage around.

They’re the only canine that actually hibernates, so depending on when you visit, you may or may not spot a Tanuki or two.

If you don’t see one in real life, you may, however, come across a drawing or a little model of one. These cute little animals have crept into Japanese folklore as shape-shifting spirits called Bake-danuki.

And although they used to have a rather sinister reputation, over the last few hundred years their reputation has changed to that of a fun loving character who brings good fortune and prosperity.

So if you see a real one, as they do come out to forage during the day sometimes – congratulations!

Japanese Macaque Macaca fuscata

This hardy species of monkey lives further north than any other non-human primate, can be seen all over Japan, and is also known as a ‘Snow Monkey.’

You may have seen pictures of these cold looking fellow’s, with snow stuck to their bushy grey eyebrows, pink faces poking through the steam as they bathe in a lovely hot spring.

In fact, there’s only one place in the whole of Japan where they do that, and it’s nowhere near the Kumano. There is a good chance you’ll see a macaque on your walk though, and if you do, don’t look into their eyes. They can get upset with that. And an upset monkey can totally ruin your day.

Mamushi Gloydius blomhoffii

The Mamushi, or Japanese pit viper, is one of the most dangerous snakes in Japan, biting a couple of thousand people every year.

They hunt at night using heat-sensitive ‘pits’ that allow them to track down warm-blooded rodents, and if you see one you’ll recognise their dark brown head is a triangular shape, with light grey sides.

They are quite common, and live in all kinds of environments so there’s a good chance you’ll spot a Mamushi on your walk. Keep your eyes open and don’t step on one, you’ll be alright.

Given the Camino crosses three different countries, it’s a little difficult to summarise the cuisine you’ll enjoy along the way. But we’ll give it a try.

When you’re not in the cities, you’ll be travelling for most of the time in between lots of little villages and towns, and whenever you stop for the night, or lunch, you’ll have the pleasure of tasting a cheese, or a dish that’s been made locally for hundreds of years.

Cured meats and salamis that have probably never made it out of the region you’re in. Fresh bread that melts in the mouth, and now and again, you’ll stumble into a wine region – like La Rioja.

We’re convinced they keep the best wines for themselves here, and if you visit during the summer festival, on June 29^th, you’ll be lucky enough to experience the Batalla de Vino – one of the world’s biggest food fights.

Spanish omelettes are a delight wherever you are in Spain, and Tapas varies depending on the region you’re in too. More seafood the closer to the coast, of course, and when you’re near Padrón, if it’s the right season, you’ll find a plethora of peppers known as Pimentos.

In Portugal, you can sample a variety of Bacalhão dishes – cod fish combined with rice, potatoes and locally made sauces. Cocido, a huge plate of meat, garbanzos and greens. Roast goat, drowned octopus, and of course, the ubiquitous Portuguese tart.

The further into the countryside you get, however, the less chance of there being a menu in English, so you either need to brush up on your languages, or go with a sense of culinary adventure – and an iron stomach. Enjoy!

Anywhere you want to start your walk, it’s pretty easy to get to. Europe, in general, is well served by plane, train and bus services – especially the larger destinations like Seville, Porto or Pamplona.

Santiago de Compostela is the end point for many however, so here’s a few details about getting back home afterwards from Santiago de Compostela.

Flights
You can fly direct to Madrid, Barcelona, Valencia, London, Liverpool, Frankfurt, Rome, Barcelona, Paris and Dublin.

Trains
To Madrid. Leaving at 9am and arriving at 2pm, or the overnighter, leaving at 10:30pm and arriving at 7:30am the next morning.

To Barcelona. Via Madrid as above. Another 2hrs 45 minutes onto Barcelona. Service on the hour, every hour.

To Pamplona. Via Ourense Emplane. Trains every four hours, taking 1 hour 37 minutes. From Ourense Emplane there’s only one train a day to Pamplona, and it takes 7 hours 45 mins. Seems like quite a long journey, but considering you’ve probably just taken two weeks to walk it, maybe not so bad.

Buses
To Santander. Two buses a day, taking 7 hours 45 mins.

To Madrid. Via Mendez Alvaro. Four buses a day, taking 8 hours and 45 mins. From Mendez Alvaro the train takes 28 minutes, and delivers you at terminal 4 of the Madrid Barajas Airport.

Timetables change, of course, so it’s best to check all of this with the local tourist board before you go.

The variety of routes you can take, and the distance you can travel make it rather tricky to forecast the weather. Nevertheless, we are talking about Northern Europe in general, so mid-summer isn’t going to be too hot (compared to most of Australia for example) and mid-winter you’re going to get some snow, especially in the Picos de Europas, and the Pyrenees.

Galicia itself is heavily influenced by the Atlantic. It’s frequently windy between October and April, and it can be foggy anytime – which actually adds to the beauty of the landscapes in the early morning.

Santiago De Compostela is cool and humid, with the warmest weather between July and August – average highs of 24°C and lows of about 14°C. It’s frequently rainy too, and even in these summer months, you’ll get five days of rain.

The best time to walk is actually in spring, or autumn, however, as it’s a lot less crowded, there’s less chance of rain and the temperature is much nicer for walking in.

The overwhelming majority of those who walk the Camino take the ‘French Way’ – which means crossing the mountainous boundary between France and Spain – the Pyrenees.

It crosses a lot further north than Hannibal and his famous elephants did, but it’s the same imposing barrier nonetheless, and quite a test for the legs at the beginning of your walk.

Further along the northern coast of Spain you’ll also skirt the fierce looking Picos de Europa mountains, however apart from these two regions, you’ll be walking, for the most part, through a variety of agricultural landscapes that have been shaped by generations of farmers tilling the land, and feeding the population for thousands of years.

Rolling fields of cereals, olive groves, vineyards and the lush green pastures of the Cantabrian coast, interspersed with picturesque villages and cobbled lanes lined with sunflowers, roman bridges and gothic cathedrals.

The high plains of Castilla last for hundreds of kilometres, and are perhaps the most uninteresting section of the walk, yet there’s nothing too taxing, and overall across all of the routes, the paths themselves are wide, and in good condition.

In fact the majority of the Camino is not very difficult, except for the fact that you’ll be walking for, potentially, two or three weeks in a row.

At the end of the walk, and after a decent rest (!) many pilgrims continue another 70kms to the coast, and the most Westerly point of Spain – Finisterre. This was the end of the known world for the Romans, and the translation in Latin is ‘Finis’ – ‘End’ and ‘Terre’ – Earth.

The Dual Pilgrim initiative unites two UNESCO world heritage listed walks, the El Camino in Spain and the Kumano Kodo in Japan.

Both are culturally significant, beautiful walks that pilgrims have been completing for over a thousand years, however the natural environments you’ll find yourself in, and the experiences you’ll enjoy are as different as you can probably get.

While the El Camino takes you on Christian pilgrimage through Europe to the north-west of Spain, where the relics of St James are buried, the Kumano takes you through a mountainous region of Japan to visit three sacred shrines, steeped in the Buddhist and ancient Shinto religions.

If you complete them both you’re given a certificate and a badge, and if you want, you’re listed on the Dual Pilgrim website, with a picture of you receiving your certificate next to your name, and the date you completed the task.

So what do you have to do?

Camino de Santiago

Complete one of the Way of St. James routes, walking the final 100km on foot or by horse, or the last 200km by bicycle.

Kumano Kodo

No bikes or horses allowed on the Kumano, so you have to walk any of the following routes:

– Takijiri-oji to Kumano Hongu Taisha – 38 km
–  Kumano Nachi Taisha to/from Kumano Hongu Taisha – 30 km
– Hosshinmon-oji to Kumano Hongu Taisha – 7 km – plus a visit to Kumano Hayatama Taisha and Kumano Nachi Taisha
–  Koyasan to Kumano Hongu Taisha – 70 km

If you start with the Camino, you need to register at the Santiago Tourist Office. You won’t get a ‘dual pilgrim passport’ starting here, but you’ll be able to get a certificate that you can present in Japan when you finish.

What happens at the end.

If you complete the two at Santiago, you’ll be given a badge in the Santiago tourist office without much fanfare or celebration. If you finish in Tanabe, in Japan, however, there’s a special Taiko Ceremony where you’ll be invited to express your spiritual journey, thoughts and emotions in the physical realm, by banging on the sacred Taiko drum.

You’ll also receive a certificate from the Head Priest, made from local Washi Japanese handmade paper, and featuring the character for “Way” in the background. A unique memento of your achievement.

Pilgrims Passports

You can buy a ‘Credencial del Peregrino’ from any number of churches, shops and tourist offices. These will give you preference in the Auberges if they’re crowded, and if you get it stamped along the way, you can receive a ‘Compostela’, or, certificate of completion at the end.

Compestelas
Available from the Pilgrims Office in Sangtiago, on production of a stamped ‘Credencial del Peregrino’. Christian, and non-religious compostela’s are also available. 

What to take
You can have a look at our blog on what to take on a walk, however, keep in mind that you will never be too far away from civilization – and you’re best to pack light on a walk of this length. Because of the conditions in northern Spain, we’d also strongly advise you take a set of waterproofs.

Languages.

We’d recommend a phrasebook for the countries you’ll spend most time in, however here are a few words of Spanish.

Hello  – Ola
What is your name? –  Como te llamas?
My name is – Me llamo es…
How are you? – Cómo estás?
I am good – Muy Bien
Where did you start walking the Camino? – Donde empezaste el camino?
Where is the hotel? – Dónde está el hotel?

In Galicia, most people also speak a regional dialect called Galego – but they’ll be pleased if you at least attempt a little Spanish.

Money.
The Euro is used throughout, and you’ll be able to use credit cards in most places too.

Plugs.

You’ll need a European converter with two-point round plugs. 230 V and 50 Hz.

Tipping

Not mandatory, or even expected in Spain, Portugal or France, but 5% might be given if the service was very good – and you’d like to express your thanks.

Albergue Etiquette

Respect for your fellow pilgrims is at the heart of Albergue etiquette.

Don’t make a noise in the dorm room, don’t set an alarm, respect the lights out curfew at 10pm, turn your phone to silent and don’t use it in the dorm, clean up after yourself in the kitchen, and everywhere else for that matter – and don’t snore.

In fact, there are sometimes snorers’ rooms if you ask.

Or instead of having to worry about all of that, you could ask us to arrange everything and instead of staying in a dorm room, you’ll be staying in a boutique hotel – using your phone as much you like, and not queuing up to use a shower in the morning.

An Onsen is a naturally occurring hot spring, and since the Kii Mountains lie just south of the Japan Median Tectonic Line, and right on top of the Pacific Ring of Fire, there are quite a lot of them bubbling up through the rock.

They dredge up a diverse array of minerals from beneath the earth’s mantle, and are known to have significant healing properties for anyone who bathes in their waters. They’re highly popular in Japan, and a range of resort-style facilities have sprung up around most of them to cater to the visitors.

Yunomine Onsen

During a walk on the Kumano Kodo you’ll probably spend some time in what’s thought to be Japan’s oldest onsen – the Yunomine Onsen. Discovered roughly 1,800 years ago, Yunomine is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site in its own right.

Resting in a onsen after a long days’ walk is a particular delight of the Kumano Kodo, and in Yunomine you can even combine it with a tasty snack.

Next to the river there’s an open section of the hot spring that gets up to 90 degrees Centigrade, and if you buy a few eggs and vegetables you can have them lowered down in a net to cook.

Fast food, old school Japanese style.

Kawayu Onsen

Another Onsen worth mentioning sits on the Oto river, which is a tributary of the Kumano-gawa. One side of the river is a variety of ryokans, minshuks and hotels, while the other side is a scenic forested mountainside.

The hot spring here is 73 degrees, but the river brings it down to a beautiful
40 and the best way to enjoy it is to dig your own little bath out of the pebbles, settle in, and relax.

There’s no doubt, or debating the fact that the Camino de Santiago began as a Christian pilgrimage. A way to test your faith, respect your god and perhaps seek redemption.

The Codex Calixtinus, written in the 12^th Century as a guide to the Camino (also the very first guidebook ever written, about anywhere) leaves you in no doubt as to the nature of the walk.

‘The pilgrim route is for those who are good: it is the lack of vices, the thwarting of the body, the increase of virtues, pardon for sins, sorrow for the penitent, the road of the righteous, love of the saints, faith in the resurrection and the reward of the blessed, a separation from hell, the protection of the heavens.

It takes us away from luscious foods, it makes gluttonous fatness vanish, it restrains voluptuousness, constrains the appetites of the flesh which attack the fortress of the soul, cleanses the spirit, leads us to contemplation, humbles the haughty, raises up the lowly, loves poverty.’

Nowadays, however, even the Dean of the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela is not so sure anymore. Here’s what Segundo Perez Lopez has to say about the people who walk the Way of St James today.

“The current situation of crisis in the world, and personal searching, leads oneself to get out on the pilgrimage route, to try to find oneself, and transcend, making sense of our existence.”

Notice he doesn’t mention anything about religion, or god, gluttonous fatness or the protection of the heavens. Even for a Catholic priest he recognises the more personal, spiritual nature of many pilgrims today.

The church will even provide you with a non-religious ‘Compostela’ – certificate of completion – if you like, which makes only one stipulation in accordance with religion.

You have to ‘make the Pilgrimage for religious/spiritual reasons or at least have an attitude of search’.

So even the Church is saying it doesn’t necessarily have to be about religion anymore.

Spirituality, a shared experience with others, the monotonous isolation of walking for weeks on end – perhaps, the church is admitting that maybe, there’s a touch of the divine in the act of the walk itself. Who knows, but it can’t do any harm to go and find out.