HIGHLIGHTS OF THE KUMANO KODO PILGRIMAGE:

• This self-guided trip is designed to allow you the opportunity to choose when and who you want to walk with and at your own pace.
• Walk the full Kumano Kodo Nakahechi trail as it cuts its way through mountains, forest, small villages and to stunning Japanese temples brought to life by the Japanese monks that live there.
• There’s the opportunity to add the Kohechi route and a couple of days walking at the spiritual capital of Shingon Buddhism in Koyasan. The stunning town of Koyasan at the top of Mount Koya known for its’ temples and its’ natural beauty is world heritage listed. The Kumano Kodo Kohechi route links Koyasan with Hongu Taisha.
• What makes this walk even more special is the immersive traditional Japanese experience. In the evenings soak in your Ryokan or Minshuku’s onsen, dine traditionally and savour Japanese multi-course dinners and breakfasts. There’s also an opportunity to bath in a 1200-year-old onsen.
• Witness outstanding natural beauty as you walk, see the Grand Shrines at Hongu and Nachi-san, along with Nachi-taki waterfall, the tallest in Japan.
• Walk toward becoming a dual pilgrim by walking the Kumano Kodo (the other world heritage listed walk is the (Camino de Santiago) at your own pace with the comforting knowledge that you have local support on the ground.
• Importantly, we can vary the length of walks on the Kumano Kodo most days. We can also customise itineraries to suit your needs.

The Kumano Kodo Story

Natural Origins
The Kumano Kodo Pilgrimage exists, simply, because the Kumano mountains are blessed with incredible natural beauty, and the forests, waterfalls and hot springs have been drawing people to the area for thousands of years.

The Japanese propensity to appreciate and worship nature even developed into a religion – Shinto – which remains one of the strongest faiths in Japan to this day.

Shinto doesn’t have a founder or a particular scripture to follow, and the Shinto gods, or ‘kami’ take the form of natural elements such as wind, rain, mountains, trees and rivers.

Over time the three grand Shrines of the Kumano were built to represent these natural spirits, and now they form the centre piece of the Pilgrimage.

The World of Darkness
The Kumano region actually used to be called Yomi-no-kuni, which also comes from Shinto, and translates to the Land of the Dead or The World of Darkness.

Yomi-no-kuni isn’t a fire and brimstone kind of place though, it’s simply an underworld where you go when you die, regardless of how you behaved when you were alive. In other words, it’s a Japanese form of heaven.

Buddhism Arrives
In the 6th Century Buddhism arrived in Kumano, and the area became a center of ascetic practices. Eventually the Shinto spirits were believed to be emanations of Buddha, and the three shrines began to be worshipped as one – called the Kumano Sanzo.

This peaceful blending of religions is alive and well today. People happily worship separate deities, or the same ones for different reasons, throughout the region.

Official Kumano pilgrim etiquette even states that you should respect the faith of past and present worshippers, and that you greet others with a smile and a warm heart.

Royalty & Aristocrats
Two centuries later, the next swathe of pilgrims began visiting the region in search of salvation and enlightenment.

The imperial and aristocratic families of the Heian period turned their pilgrim into a reasonably arduous affair, however, crammed with strict spiritual training to purify the mind, body and soul.

Whether they achieved it or not, who knows, but at least they were doing it somewhere beautiful. More and more shrines were built, and accommodations to support the pilgrims began to appear throughout the region.

Between the 11th and 13th Centuries, the Japanese Imperial family visited Kumano almost 100 times, however, the rise of the Samurai and the warrior class was about to put a stop to that.

The Samurai
Towards the end of the 12th Century, control over the Kumano area was assumed over by a feudal government run by military families. This eventually put an end to the Imperial pilgrimages, but the aristocrats and now an increasing amount of Samurai, began beating a path to the Kumano Sanzo.

Kumano democratised
By the 15th Century an emerging economy allowed wealthy citizens to become pilgrims, and by the 18th Century even more could afford the trip.

Numbers declined in the late 19th Century, when Japan was forced to open to the outside world and the government clamped down on religious freedoms to a certain extent, however in 1990s saw a resurgence in Kumano Kodo visitors.

In 2004 Kumano was recognised as a UNESCO World Heritage site, and the natural beauty of the area is being discovered once again by Japanese, and overseas pilgrims alike.

The Kumano mountains are home to a wide array of exotic and beautiful native species. The most prolific being the mighty cedar tree, which can be found all over the mountains and valleys, creating atmospheric forests to get lost in, or to find yourself in.

Japanese Cedar Tree Cryptomeria japonica

An extremely fast-growing evergreen that can reach up to 100 feet high and 30 feet wide, and live to be 600 years old. They emanate a pleasant pine scent, and they’re insect repellent – which is also pleasing.

Their trunks grow tall and straight, and the wood is waterproof and light so they’re often used for building. In fact, that’s why there are so many of them all over Japan.

The Government embarked on a massive reforestation effort after World War II, and even today, of the 62.3 million acres of forest in Japan, over 10 million are cedar forests.

Japanese Black Bear Ursus thibetanus japonicus

Although Kumano literally means ‘Bear Field’, it’s extremely unlikely that you’ll come across a bear on your walk as there are very few left. In fact they’re listed as vulnerable on the endangered species list.

It is possible though. The Japanese Black Bear tends to live in forests and mountains, although they’re not too keen on Cedar’s as they don’t produce any nuts for them to eat.

They’re black, of course, and have a distinctive crescent moon of white or silver across their chest. And they’re vegetarians most of the time, however will happily take a swipe at anyone who gets in their way.

Some people wear little bells to warn them off, however we’re not entirely sure that’s reliable advice. Best to stay aware, and stay out of their way if you see one.

Japanese Giant Hornet Vespa mandarinia japonica

If you spot a Giant Hornet you’ll know about it. Coming in at three to four centimetres, the aptly named Giant Hornet isn’t the largest hornet in the world, but it’s pretty close.

Their sting, particularly because of the amount of venom injected, can also cause anaphylactic shock if you’re allergic.

The good news is that they’re not interested in human beings at all, however they’re territorial so if they think you’re invading their space, they‘ll chase you away rather aggressively.

If you see one, or a few, simply turn around and walk away. If you run or wave your arms around, they’ll think you’re a danger, and they’ll go after you at speeds of up to 25mph!

Like most wild animals, they’re not something to be concerned about unless you bother them. As any Australian used to walking the bush will already know. See a snake? Turn around and walk away.

Just leave the Giant Hornets alone and you’ll be fine. If you are prone to anaphylactic shock however, we’d recommend you take an epi pen with you, just in case.

Tanuki Nyctereutes procyonoide

Also known as Racoon dogs, although they’re not actually related to Racoons, Tanuki are sociable little animals that live in pairs or small groups. They live in burrows and come out at night to forage around.

They’re the only canine that actually hibernates, so depending on when you visit, you may or may not spot a Tanuki or two.

If you don’t see one in real life, you may, however, come across a drawing or a little model of one. These cute little animals have crept into Japanese folklore as shape-shifting spirits called Bake-danuki.

And although they used to have a rather sinister reputation, over the last few hundred years their reputation has changed to that of a fun-loving character who brings good fortune and prosperity.

So if you see a real one, as they do come out to forage during the day sometimes – congratulations!

Japanese Macaque Macaca fuscata

This hardy species of monkey lives further north than any other non-human primate, can be seen all over Japan, and is also known as a ‘Snow Monkey.’

You may have seen pictures of these cold-looking fellows, with snow stuck to their bushy grey eyebrows, pink faces poking through the steam as they bathe in a lovely hot spring.

In fact, there’s only one place in the whole of Japan where they do that, and it’s nowhere near the Kumano. There is a good chance you’ll see a macaque on your walk though, and if you do, don’t look into their eyes. They can get upset with that. And an upset monkey can totally ruin your day.

Mamushi Gloydius blomhoffii

The Mamushi, or Japanese pit viper, is one of the most dangerous snakes in Japan, biting a couple of thousand people every year.

They hunt at night using heat-sensitive ‘pits’ that allow them to track down warm-blooded rodents, and if you see one you’ll recognise their dark brown head is a triangular shape, with light grey sides.

They are quite common and live in all kinds of environments so there’s a good chance you’ll spot a Mamushi on your walk. Keep your eyes open and don’t step on one, you’ll be alright.

Coming from the west, Japanese dining is almost as magnificent an adventure as climbing Mount Fuji. When you’re walking the Kumano Kodo, your hosts in the various accommodations you stay in, will present you with a wonderful array of small dishes for breakfast and dinner. There is a focus on seasonal produce, rice, miso soup, fish and vegetables.

You’re best to fly into Osaka if you’re Kumano bound. It’s the closest big city, with regular flights from all over the world, and direct flights from most of Australia’s population centres.

From the end of March, the temperature begins to increase. In summer it’s quite warm and humid but still good for walking,  particularly if you enjoy warmer temperatures and taking a dip in a stream.

The walk is offered in winter but bring some warm clothes and good rain gear.  The area is just as beautiful if not more and is not busy at all. Soaking in outside onsen in the cool of the night is one of those real authentic Japanese experiences that you can look forward to after a big day on the track.

As walkers, we believe spring and autumn to be the best time as the weather is perfect for walking. You might also catch the cherry blossoms in late March and early April and the changing colours of Autumn in October and November.

See the weather information about Osaka’s average weather at different times of the year.

The Kumano Kodo trails crawl their way over the Kii mountains,  which cover the majority of Japan’s southerly Kii Peninsula.

Rising dramatically from the coast, the mountains stretch almost 4,000 feet into the sky and they’re almost entirely covered in trees, including old growth forests with some cedars that are over 500 years old.

As the temperature varies significantly across the range, the species also range from evergreen, coniferous, broadleaf, cedar and cherry.

It’s also a rather wet region, so torrents of water have carved out enormous gorges and river basins. Waterfalls plunge down the side of green-carpeted mountains, and little streams abound.

The mountains also form the outer arc of the Southwestern Japan Arc, part of the Pacific Ring of Fire, meaning hot springs are to be found throughout.

The entire area has incredible biodiversity, and because people have been drawn to the mountains for thousands of years, there are hundreds of archeologically significant sites too.

Mountains cover much of Japan, as do forests, and fortunately both have taken on a spiritual nature and central place in the culture – so the area is likely to be protected well into the future.

“Mountains continue to inspire a sense of the sacred that unites the Japanese people in a love for the land on which they live and for everything connected with it — from the unearthly heights of heavenly peaks down to the mundane realities of everyday life.”

From ‘Sacred Mountains of the World’
by Edwin Bernbaum, Senior Fellow at The Mountain Institute

UNESCO stands for the United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organisation. It was formed in 1945 after the end of the Second World War, and its aim is to build peace in the minds of men and women, preventing war from taking root instead.

One of the ways it does this is by identifying areas of significance to all humanity, shining a light on and thereby educating people to our shared history.

There are four natural and six cultural criteria that guide selection for the honour of World Heritage Site, ranging from ‘a masterpiece of human creative genius’ to ‘outstanding natural habitat’ and there are only two ‘Pilgrimage Walks’ that make the grade:  The Kumano Kodo and the Camino de Santiago. In 2015 the Dual Pilgrim program began, and now if you complete both walks, you’re welcomed into a rather exclusive club of ‘Dual Pilgrims.’

What you have to do

Caminio de Santiago
Complete one of the Way of St. James routes, walking the final 100km on foot or by horse, or the last 200km by bicycle.

Kumano Kodo
No bikes or horses allowed on the Kumano, so you have to walk any of the following routes:

– Takijiri-oji to Kumano Hongu Taisha – 38 km
– Kumano Nachi Taisha to/from Kumano Hongu Taisha – 30 km
– Hosshinmon-oji to Kumano Hongu Taisha – 7 km – plus a visit to Kumano Hayatama Taisha and Kumano Nachi Taisha
– Koyasan to Kumano Hongu Taisha – 70 km

How to prove it

Before you start your walk, simply register at the Kumano Hongu Heritage Center, or the Tanabe Tourist Information Center.

You’ll be given a Passport for you to stamp in little wooden stands at most of the temples. If you can’t find it just ask and you’ll be pointed in the right direction.

One side of the passport is for Kumano, the other for the Way of St. James.

What happens at the end

Once you’ve completed both pilgrimages you’ll be given a certificate, a badge, and if you like you’ll be listed in the Dual Pilgrim website.

If you do the Camino first, and complete your dual pilgrimage at the Kumano Kodo there’s a special Taiko Ceremony at the Kumano Hongu Taisha.
You’ll be invited to express your spiritual journey, thoughts and emotions in the physical realm by banging on the sacred Taiko drum. Please note – you’ll need to register for the ceremony at the office of the Kumano Hongu Taisha shrine.
You’ll also receive a certificate from the Head Priest, made from local Washi Japanese handmade paper, and featuring the character for “Way” in the background. A unique memento of your achievement.

If you want to find out a bit more about the Dual Pilgrimage you can read our blog about it here.

If you’ve never been to Japan before, you’ll find almost everything is totally different from what you’re used to. Which, of course, is part of the fun. Here’s few practicalities to help you get started.

Manners & Customs

Life in Japan is governed by large array of manners and customs that may seem odd to outsiders, yet it’s worthwhile trying to learn a few. Not only will it prevent you from being rude, the locals will appreciate your efforts.

Take off your shoes
Many places require you to take off your shoes before entering.
If the floor is raised, and you see a pile of shoes, please do the same.

Pointing is not on

Extremely rude, and you should try to use open-handed gestures instead.

Don’t eat and walk

Sit down instead, or you’re considered a sloppy eater.

Don’t blow your nose

At least not in public anyway. Many will go to the toilet to do this.

Slurping is good!
Slurping noodles shows that you’re enjoying your meal!

Don’t tip

It’s not expected, and can even be considered rude.

Don’t play with your chopsticks

Just eat with them, that’s all.

Take your backpack off

When you’re on a train.

Language

A few words of Japanese can go a long way:

– Hello: Kon’nichiwa

– Thank you: Arigato

– Thank you very much: Domo Arigato

– Cheers!: Kanpai

– Bathroom: Basurumu

– How much?: Ikura

– Delicious: Oishi

Money

There are no ATM machines on the Kumano Kodo trails, and credit cards can’t be counted on so make sure you take plenty of cash with you.

Bathing

Be aware that in most hot springs and communal baths you’re expected to be naked. The etiquette is to take your clothes off in a changing room, rinse off first of all, then soak in the bath and enjoy. 

Yukata

Staying in a Ryokan, you may end up wearing a Yukata, traditional cotton gowns that are also used as pyjamas. Make sure you wear something underneath, fold the left side over the right, secure your belt and you’re good to go. A loose Yakuta is also considered a little rude.

Plugs

You’ll need to take an adaptor plug for your devices. The voltage is 100 Volt, and although the plugs have two pins, identical to this used in North America.

An onsen is a naturally occurring hot spring, and since the Kii Mountains lie just south of the Japan Median Tectonic Line, and right on top of the Pacific Ring of Fire, there are quite a lot of them bubbling up through the rock.

They dredge up a diverse array of minerals from beneath the earth’s mantle, and are known to have significant healing properties for anyone who bathes in their waters. They’re highly popular in Japan, and a range of resort-style facilities have sprung up around most of them to cater to the visitors.

Yunomine Onsen

During a walk on the Kumano Kodo you’ll probably spend some time in what’s thought to be Japan’s oldest onsen – the Yunomine Onsen. Discovered roughly 1,800 years ago, Yunomine is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site in its own right.

Resting in a onsen after a long days’ walk is a particular delight of the Kumano Kodo, and in Yunomine you can even combine it with a tasty snack.

Next to the river there’s an open section of the hot spring that gets up to 90 degrees Centigrade, and if you buy a few eggs and vegetables you can have them lowered down in a net to cook.

Fast food, old school Japanese style.

Kawayu Onsen

Another Onsen worth mentioning sits on the Oto river, which is a tributary of the Kumano-gawa. One side of the river is a variety of ryokans, minshuks and hotels, while the other side is a scenic forested mountainside.

The hot spring here is 73 degrees, but the river brings it down to a beautiful 40 and the best way to enjoy it is to dig your own little bath out of the pebbles, settle in, and relax.

At its core, the Kumano Kodo is about worshipping nature. The sheer beauty of the place, the serenity, and the feeling of being close to ‘whatever higher being’ you believe in, is the reason pilgrims have been coming here for years.