Kumano Kodo

• Traditional Japanese accommodations - mix of intimate, family-run or small traditional lodgings. Many feature in-house onsens.
• Delicious traditional multi-course meals each day including breakfast and dinner - made from local and seasonal ingredients. You’ll also receive a walker’s lunch to enjoy while on tour.
• Luggage transfers on most days, meaning you’ll only need to walk with a light pack for a comfortable hike.
• For self-guided tours, we provide detailed track notes, instructions and maps to help you navigate with confidence
• Should you run into any issues, have any questions or need changes in your travel plans, we offer 24/7 support from the ground.
• With Stroll, we offer flexibility in your itinerary, allowing you to adjust the pace of your journey to suit your needs. You can shorten certain walking days, or add rest days to relax at a leisurely pace.

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The Kumano Kodo Story

Natural Origins

The Kumano Kodo Pilgrimage exists simply because the Kumano mountains are blessed with incredible natural beauty, and the forests, waterfalls and hot springs have drawn people to the area for thousands of years.

The Japanese propensity to appreciate and worship nature even developed into a religion – Shinto – which remains one of the strongest faiths in Japan to this day.

Shinto doesn’t have a founder or a particular scripture to follow, and the Shinto gods, or ‘kami’ take the form of natural elements such as wind, rain, mountains, trees and rivers.

Over time the three grand Shrines of the Kumano were built to represent these natural spirits, and now they form the centrepiece of the Pilgrimage.

The World of Darkness
The Kumano region used to be called Yomi-no-kuni, which also comes from Shinto and translates to the Land of the Dead or The World of Darkness.

Yomi-no-kuni isn’t a fire and brimstone kind of place, though; it’s simply an underworld where you go when you die, regardless of how you behaved when you were alive. In other words, it’s a Japanese form of heaven.

Buddhism Arrives
In the 6th Century, Buddhism arrived in Kumano, and the area became a centre of ascetic practices. Eventually, the Shinto spirits were believed to be emanations of Buddha, and the three shrines began to be worshipped as one – called the Kumano Sanzo.

This peaceful blending of religions is alive and well today. People happily worship separate deities or the same ones throughout the region for different reasons.

Official Kumano pilgrim etiquette even states that you should respect the faith of past and present worshippers and greet others with a smile and a warm heart.

Royalty & Aristocrats
Two centuries later, the next swathe of pilgrims began visiting the region for salvation and enlightenment.

The imperial and aristocratic families of the Heian period turned their pilgrimage into a reasonably arduous affair, however, crammed with strict spiritual training to purify the mind, body and soul.

Who knows whether they achieved it or not, but at least they were doing it somewhere beautiful. More and more shrines were built, and accommodations to support the pilgrims began to appear throughout the region.

Between the 11th and 13th Centuries, the Japanese Imperial family visited Kumano almost 100 times. However, the rise of the Samurai and the warrior class were about to put a stop to that.

The Samurai
Towards the end of the 12th Century, control over the Kumano area was assumed over by a feudal government run by military families. This eventually put an end to the Imperial pilgrimages, but the aristocrats and now an increasing number of samurai began beating a path to the Kumano Sanzo.

Kumano democratised
An emerging economy allowed wealthy citizens to become pilgrims by the 15th century, and by the 18th Century, even more could afford the trip.

Numbers declined in the late 19th Century, when Japan was forced to open to the outside world, and the government clamped down on religious freedoms to a certain extent, however, the 1990's saw a resurgence in Kumano Kodo visitors.

In 2004 Kumano was recognised as a UNESCO World Heritage site, and the area's natural beauty is being discovered again by Japanese and overseas pilgrims alike.

The Kumano mountains are home to a wide array of exotic and beautiful native species. The most prolific is the mighty cedar tree, which can be found all over the mountains and valleys, creating atmospheric forests to get lost in or to find yourself in.

Japanese Cedar Tree Cryptomeria japonica

An extremely fast-growing evergreen that can reach up to 100 feet high and 30 feet wide and live to be 600 years old. They emanate a pleasant pine scent, and they’re insect repellent - which is also pleasing.

Their trunks grow tall and straight, and the wood is waterproof and light, so they’re often used for building. In fact, that’s why there are so many of them all over Japan.

The Government embarked on a massive reforestation effort after World War II, and even today, of the 62.3 million acres of forest in Japan, over 10 million are cedar forests.

Japanese Black Bear Ursus thibetanus japonicus

Although Kumano literally means ‘Bear Field’, it’s extremely unlikely that you’ll come across a bear on your walk as there are very few left. In fact, they’re listed as vulnerable on the endangered species list.

It is possible, though. The Japanese Black Bear tends to live in forests and mountains, although they’re not too keen on Cedar’s as they don’t produce any nuts for them to eat.

They’re black, of course, and have a distinctive crescent moon of white or silver across their chest. And they’re vegetarians most of the time, however will happily take a swipe at anyone who gets in their way.

Some people wear little bells to warn them off, however, we’re not entirely sure that’s reliable advice. Best to stay aware and stay out of their way if you see one.

Japanese Giant Hornet Vespa mandarinia japonica

If you spot a Giant Hornet, you’ll know about it. Coming in at three to four centimetres, the aptly named Giant Hornet isn’t the largest hornet in the world, but it’s pretty close.

Their sting, particularly because of the amount of venom injected, can also cause anaphylactic shock if you’re allergic.

The good news is that they’re not interested in human beings at all, however, they’re territorial, so if they think you’re invading their space, they‘ll chase you away rather aggressively.

If you see one, or a few, simply turn around and walk away. If you run or wave your arms around, they’ll think you’re a danger, and they’ll go after you at speeds of up to 25mph!

Like most wild animals, they’re not something to be concerned about unless you bother them. As any Australian used to walking the bush will already know. See a snake? Turn around and walk away.

Just leave the Giant Hornets alone and you’ll be fine. If you are prone to anaphylactic shock, however, we’d recommend you take an epi pen with you, just in case.

Tanuki Nyctereutes procyonoide

Also known as Racoon dogs, although they’re not actually related to Racoons, Tanuki are sociable little animals that live in pairs or small groups. They live in burrows and come out at night to forage around.

They’re the only canine that actually hibernates, so depending on when you visit, you may or may not spot a Tanuki or two.

If you don’t see one in real life, you may come across a drawing or a little model of one. These cute little animals have crept into Japanese folklore as shape-shifting spirits called Bake-danuki.

And although they used to have a rather sinister reputation, over the last few hundred years, their reputation has changed to that of a fun-loving character who brings good fortune and prosperity.

So if you see a real one, as they do come out to forage during the day sometimes - congratulations!

Japanese Macaque Macaca fuscata

This hardy species of monkey lives further north than any other non-human primate, can be seen all over Japan, and is also known as a ‘Snow Monkey.’

You may have seen pictures of these cold-looking fellows, with snow stuck to their bushy grey eyebrows, pink faces poking through the steam as they bathe in a lovely hot spring.

There’s only one place in Japan where they do that, and it’s nowhere near the Kumano. There is a good chance you’ll see a macaque on your walk, though, and if you do, don’t look into their eyes. They can get upset with that. And an upset monkey can totally ruin your day.

Mamushi Gloydius blomhoffii

The Mamushi, or Japanese pit viper, is one of the most dangerous snakes in Japan, biting a couple of thousand people every year.

They hunt at night using heat-sensitive ‘pits’ that allow them to track down warm-blooded rodents, and if you see one you’ll recognise their dark brown head is a triangular shape with light grey sides.

They are quite common and live in all kinds of environments, so there’s a good chance you’ll spot a Mamushi on your walk. Keep your eyes open and don’t step on one; you’ll be alright.

Book Your Kumano Kodo Walk Today

Japanese dining is almost as magnificent an adventure as climbing Mount Fuji. And when you’re walking the Kumano Kodo, your hosts in the various Ryokan you stay in will present you with a wonderful array of tiny dishes for breakfast and dinner.

Seafood

Sushi and sashimi, of course, are staples in Japan, and when you’re on the coast – in Tanabe – the variety of dishes available is incredible.

The Kuroshio current flows across the Kii Peninsula, acting like the Gulf Stream, bringing warm waters to sustain the coral reefs and a wide variety of seafood endemic to the region.

Scabbardfish sashimi is a meaty delicacy that washes down well with a beer, sake, or a healthy green tea. Grilled squid, prawn dim sum, mackerel nigiri rolls, octopus tempura, yellowtail tuna, scallops – the list goes on.

Mountain Food

As you move further into the mountains, local plants and animals make their way onto the menu. Mushrooms, in particular, have a special place in Japanese cooking, and many come with amazing health benefits too.

Shiitake, eryngii, enoki, maitake, matsutake – again, the list goes on, as do the dishes they’re in. Shiitake mushrooms are probably the most well-known, and with a meaty, smoky flavour, you’ll often find them in soups and stir-fries. They’re also anti-viral, stimulate immunity, lower your cholesterol and help promote cancer resistance. So when you’re served a plate of them – eat up!

You might find eggplant presented in a tasty broth with umami miso sauce, delicately sliced beef with a sesame dressing, Japanese curry with croutons, and if you’re lucky and brave enough - you might have the chance to eat Hachinoko or ‘bee children’.

Served with a siding of rice, Hachinoko is the cooked larvae of the Japanese Giant Hornet, and is said to have a rich earthy taste.

A culinary adventure indeed.

Kaiseki ryori haute-cuisine

Although your meals in a Ryokan will be vast, varied and, most importantly – delicious, they’ll also follow a well-established routine.

Kaiseki ryori is traditional Japanese haute cuisine, and although chefs can vary the courses to highlight regional specialities, they’ll generally appear in the following order, with the mains representing a particular cooking method.

Typical Starters

Shokuzen-shu

Your meal begins with a sweet wine or a locally brewed alcohol of some kind.

Appetizers

A variety of carefully prepared, and beautifully presented appetisers will begin to give you a taste of the region.

Common Main Courses

Suimono - Soup

Your soup dish is often a clear miso broth with simple vegetables, mushrooms, tofu or seafood.

Otsukuri - Sashimi

The Japanese staple of fresh, thinly sliced raw seafood. Generally delivered with soy sauce and wasabi and served on a bed of daikon – Japanese radish.

Nimono - Boiled Dish
Seafood or meat is either simmered, boiled, or stewed along with some vegetables in a sweetened soy sauce and cooking sake broth.

Yakimono - Grilled Dish
The local speciality will generally be grilled and served for this dish. Be it seafood of some kind, Wagyu, or Kobe beef, for example.

Agemono - Deep Fried Dish

Your Agemono is often tempura, consisting of locally grown or foraged produce, served with a light soy dipping sauce.

Mushimono - Steamed Dish

This dish may come in a little teacup, with a little lid, and a little spoon to eat it with. If it’s Chawanmushi, however, it certainly doesn’t come with a little flavour – the savoury custard with seafood, fish stock, chicken, mushrooms and ginkgo nuts is packed with flavour, and utterly wonderful.

Sunomono - Vinegared Dish

This is often fish, or octopus swimming in a vinaigrette dressing with a sprinkling of vegetables, although it could be anything really, so long as it tastes good in vinegar.

Shokuji

After your mains, there’s another set of courses before your dessert. Are you still hungry? Full up already?

Rice

It’s incredible how even a plain bowl of rice in Japan can be as delicious as it is.

Some chefs experiment and add some local flavour; others keep it old school, fluffy, and unbelievably good.

Miso Soup

Another Japanese staple that tastes so much better in Japan than it does anywhere else. Miso paste and vegetables in a clear, tasty broth. Yum yum.

Tsukemono - Pickles

Rounding off this course is an array of pickled vegetables such as cabbage, plum and daikon.

Various accommodation styles started springing up in the 11th Century when the Imperial Family and Aristocrats began their pilgrimages in greater numbers.

Today you can stay in a modern hotel with all the conveniences you’d find in London, Sydney or Singapore, however, the more authentic experiences are much more rewarding.

Ryokan

These traditional Japanese Inns come in various styles and prices to suit all budgets.

They’re probably the most well-known places to stay on the Kumano Kodo and certainly offer the most immersive experience – with almost all centred around a communal bath or hot spring.

Rooms have traditional tatami mats, shoji sliding doors and futons, although some higher-end Ryokans will have beds.

One of the highlights, however, are the dinners and breakfasts that come as part of the deal. Kaiseki ryori is a traditional Japanese multi-course haute cuisine, which you’ll enjoy served in a communal dining area before retiring to the bathing area to relax.

Shukubo

Shukubo are Buddhist temples that open their doors to paying guests. Your room may be similar to that in a Ryokan, with futons and shoji sliding doors. However, you’ll gain access to the temple’s cultural treasures too.

Enjoy the gardens and the baths, and join in the morning prayers if you like.

Dinners and breakfast will also be served in Buddhist Shojinryori and vegetarian cuisine.

If it’s your first time in Japan, a night in a Shukubo is not to be missed.

Kokuminshukusha

Some of these ‘people’s lodges’ are privately run, and some are government-owned. Once again, they lean toward the traditional in their style, and delicious food will generally be on offer.

Homestay

Another unique place to stay while walking the Kumano is someone else’s house! Kind of like a bed & breakfast. However, your hosts will be a lot more welcoming and happy to involve you in their everyday lives around the village and in the community. You’ll eat together and learn how families live in the Kii Mountains.

Campgrounds & Bungalows

More popular in the summer, of course, the wide variety of campgrounds on offer allow you to remain in touch with nature even when your day’s walking has finished. Many offer bungalows within the grounds too.

You’re best to fly into Osaka if you’re Kumano bound. It’s the closest big city, with regular flights from all over the world and direct flights from most of Australia’s population centres.

Getting to Tanabe from Osaka

From Osaka, you need to make your way down to the bottom of the Kii Peninsula, and because it’s such a mountainous region, most of the transport routes hug the coastline all the way down.

Bus
The Meiko bus leaves every four hours, costs about $38 AUD and takes just over three hours to get to Tanabe.

Train
The train takes about the same time, with an hour layover on the way, and costs roughly $60 AUD. Or you can take the express, which is only 2  hours and about the same price.

The ‘Kinokuni Line’ hugs the coast between the Pacific and the mountains, and a seat of the right side of the train is best for views of the ocean. Enjoy.

Drive
Driving takes only an hour and a half, however, the rugged coastline is dotted with quaint little villages, and you might want to stop along the way. Small cars can be rented for about $65 AUD a day.

Getting to Tanabe from Tokyo

If you fly into Tokyo, it takes about five hours on the train to get to Tanabe. However, you can fly into the regional Nanki-Shirahama Airport in just over an hour. You can take a local bus to Tanabe or anywhere else in the region to begin your walk.

Getting around the region

The villages and towns are serviced by public buses, and although they’re limited, it’s easy enough to make your way around with a bit of planning. In the larger towns rental bicycles are an excellent way to move between the sights, as the distances are pretty short.

How to ride a local bus

Easy when you know how…
1. Enter through the rear door and take a ticket.
2. Push the button when you want to get off.
3. Match the ticket number to the electronic fare chart at the front.
4. Put the exact money on the fare box at the front.
5. Exit through the front door.

Transport Passes

JR-West, Kansai WIDE Area Pass
The Kansai WIDE Area Pass allows you to travel on the "Sanyo Shinkansen" bullet train and the express and local trains on the JR West railway network. It costs roughly AUD 92 and lasts for four days.

Ise-Kumano-Wakayama Area Tourist Pass

This pass gives you access to a larger area and a wider variety of options. It costs roughly AUD 145 and lasts for five days. However, it’s not available for purchase in Japan, so you’ll have to be organised before you go.

From the end of March, the temperature begins to increase. In summer, it’s quite warm and humid but still good for walking, particularly if you enjoy warmer temperatures and taking a dip in a stream.

The walk is offered in winter, but bring some warm clothes and good rain gear. The area is just as beautiful, if not more, and is not busy at all. Soaking in an outside onsen in the cool of the night is one of those authentic Japanese experiences you can look forward to after a big day on the track.

As walkers, we believe spring and autumn to be the best time as the weather is perfect for walking. You might also catch the cherry blossoms in late March and early April and the changing colours of Autumn in October and November.

See the weather information about Osaka’s average weather at different times of the year.

The Kumano Kodo trails crawl their way over the Kii mountains, which cover most of Japan’s southerly Kii Peninsula.

Rising dramatically from the coast, the mountains stretch almost 4,000 feet into the sky, and they’re almost entirely covered in trees, including old-growth forests with some cedars that are over 500 years old.

As the temperature varies significantly across the range, the species also range from evergreen, coniferous, broadleaf, cedar and cherry.

It’s also a rather wet region, so torrents of water have carved out enormous gorges and river basins. Waterfalls plunge down the side of green-carpeted mountains, and there are little streams abound.

The mountains also form the outer arc of the Southwestern Japan Arc, part of the Pacific Ring of Fire, meaning hot springs are to be found throughout.

The entire area has incredible biodiversity, and because people have been drawn to the mountains for thousands of years, there are hundreds of archaeologically significant sites too.

Mountains cover much of Japan, as do forests, and fortunately, both have taken on a spiritual nature and central place in the culture – so the area is likely to be protected well into the future.

“Mountains continue to inspire a sense of the sacred that unites the Japanese people in a love for the land on which they live and for everything connected with it — from the unearthly heights of heavenly peaks down to the mundane realities of everyday life.”

From ‘Sacred Mountains of the World’
by Edwin Bernbaum, Senior Fellow at The Mountain Institute

UNESCO stands for the United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organisation. It was formed in 1945 after the end of the Second World War, and its aim is to build peace in the minds of men and women, preventing war from taking root instead.

One of the ways it does this is by identifying areas of significance to all humanity, shining a light on and thereby educating people to our shared history.

There are four natural and six cultural criteria that guide selection for the honour of World Heritage Site, ranging from ‘a masterpiece of human creative genius to ‘outstanding natural habitat’ and there are only two ‘Pilgrimage Walks’ that make the grade.

The Kumano Kodo and the Camino de Santiago. In 2015 the Dual Pilgrim program began, and now if you complete both walks, you’re welcomed into a rather exclusive club of ‘Dual Pilgrims.’

What you have to do

Camino de Santiago
Complete one of the Way of St. James routes, walking the final 100km on foot or by horse or the last 200km by bicycle.

Kumano Kodo
No bikes or horses are allowed on the Kumano, so you have to walk any of the following routes:

- Takijiri-oji to Kumano Hongu Taisha - 38 km
- Kumano Nachi Taisha to/from Kumano Hongu Taisha - 30 km
- Hosshinmon-oji to Kumano Hongu Taisha - 7 km - plus a visit to Kumano Hayatama Taisha and Kumano Nachi Taisha
- Koyasan to Kumano Hongu Taisha - 70 km

How to prove it

Before you start your walk, register at the Kumano Hongu Heritage Centre or the Tanabe Tourist Information Center.

You’ll be given a Passport for you to stamp in little wooden stands at most of the temples. If you can’t find it, just ask and you’ll be pointed in the right direction.

One side of the passport is for Kumano, the other for the Way of St. James.

What happens at the end

Once you’ve completed both pilgrimages, you’ll be given a certificate and a badge, and if you like, you’ll be listed in the Dual Pilgrim website.

If you do the Camino first and complete your dual pilgrimage at the Kumano Kodo, there’s a special Taiko Ceremony at the Kumano Hongu Taisha.

You’ll be invited to express your spiritual journey, thoughts and emotions in the physical realm by banging on the sacred Taiko drum. Please note – you’ll need to register for the ceremony at the office of the Kumano Hongu Taisha shrine.
You’ll also receive a certificate from the Head Priest, made from local Washi Japanese handmade paper and featuring the character for "Way" in the background. A unique memento of your achievement.

If you want to find out a bit more about the Dual Pilgrimage, you can read our blog about it here.

If you’ve never been to Japan before, you’ll find almost everything is totally different from what you’re used to. Which, of course, is part of the fun. Here are a few practicalities to help you get started.

Manners & Customs

Life in Japan is governed by a large array of manners and customs that may seem odd to outsiders, yet it’s worthwhile trying to learn a few. Not only will it prevent you from being rude, but the locals will also appreciate your efforts.

Take off your shoes
Many places require you to take off your shoes before entering.
If the floor is raised, and you see a pile of shoes, please do the same.

Pointing is not on
Extremely rude, and you should try to use open-handed gestures instead.

Don’t eat and walk
Sit down instead, or you’re considered a sloppy eater.

Don’t blow your nose
At least not in public, anyway. Many will go to the toilet to do this.

Slurping is good!
Slurping noodles show that you’re enjoying your meal!

Don’t tip
It’s not expected and can even be considered rude.

Don’t play with your chopsticks
Just eat with them, that’s all.

Take your backpack off
When you’re on a train.

Language

A few words in Japanese can go a long way:

- Hello: Kon'nichiwa

- Thank you: Arigato

- Thank you very much: Domo Arigato

- Cheers!: Kanpai

- Bathroom: Basurumu

- How much?: Ikura

- Delicious: Oishi

Money

There are no ATM machines on the Kumano Kodo trails, and credit cards can’t be counted on, so make sure you take plenty of cash with you.

Bathing

Be aware that in most hot springs and communal baths, you’re expected to be naked. The etiquette is to take your clothes off in a changing room, rinse off first of all, then soak in the bath and enjoy.

Yukata

Staying in a Ryokan, you may end up wearing a Yukata, traditional cotton gowns that are also used as pyjamas. Make sure you wear something underneath, fold the left side over the right, secure your belt and you’re good to go. A loose Yakuta is also considered a little rude.

Plugs

You’ll need to take an adaptor plug for your devices. The voltage is 100 Volt, and the plugs have two pins identical to the plugs used in North America.

An Onsen is a naturally occurring hot spring, and since the Kii Mountains lie just south of the Japan Median Tectonic Line and right on top of the Pacific Ring of Fire, there are quite a lot of them bubbling up through the rock.

They dredge up a diverse array of minerals from beneath the earth’s mantle and are known to have significant healing properties for anyone who bathes in their waters. They’re highly popular in Japan, and a range of resort-style facilities have sprung up around most of them to cater to the visitors.

Yunomine Onsen

During a walk on the Kumano Kodo, you’ll probably spend some time in what’s thought to be Japan’s oldest onsen – the Yunomine Onsen. Discovered roughly 1,800 years ago, Yunomine is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site in its own right.

Resting in an onsen after a long day’s walk is a particular delight of the Kumano Kodo, and in Yunomine, you can even combine it with a tasty snack.

Next to the river, there’s an open section of the hot spring that gets up to 90 degrees Centigrade, and if you buy a few eggs and vegetables, you can have them lowered down in a net to cook.

Fast food, old-school Japanese style.

Kawayu Onsen

Another Onsen worth mentioning sits on the Oto River, which is a tributary of the Kumano-gawa. One side of the river is a variety of ryokans, minshuku and hotels, while the other side is a scenic forested mountainside.

The hot spring here is 73 degrees, but the river brings it down to a beautiful
40, and the best way to enjoy it is to dig your own little bath out of the pebbles, settle in, and relax.

Tanabe

On the West coast of the Kii Peninsula, crowded in by towering mountains and resting on the edge of the Pacific Ocean, sits the second largest town in the area – Tanabe.

It’s also known as the ‘Gateway to the Kumano Kodo Pilgrimage’, and from here the main Nakahechi route strikes up into the mountains towards the Kumano Hungu Taisha, one of the three sacred shrines of Kumano.

You’ll probably spend a night or two at the beginning or the end of your walk.

Make sure you dine out in the entertainment district – the Ajijoji – and take your choice of over 200 restaurants.

The seafood here is pretty special as the surrounding waters are abundant with life – with fishing as the primary industry. Tiny ‘Shirasu’ can be found on most menus, along with squid, octopus and the odd Scabberfish – a lot more appealing than it sounds.

Hongu

Although it was merged into Tanabe in 2005, the tiny village of Hongu still has its own distinct personality – dominated by the Kumano Hongu Taisha Shrine.

Perched on a ridge surrounded by giant cypress and cedar trees, this is one of the one of the three sacred Kumano Sanzan shrines that pilgrims have been visiting for generations.

There’s also an impressive Kumano Hongu Heritage Center, which is well worth a visit, and the Yumonime Onsen isn’t too far away either. A dip in what’s though to be the oldest Onsen in Japan can’t be missed.

Nachi-Katsuura

This coastal hot spring resort is the site of another of the shrines – the Kumano Nachi Taisha. Definitely the most visually impressive of the three, one could easily argue it’s the most impressive in the entire country.

Sitting on the edge of a valley, 350 metres above sea level, halfway up Nachi Mountain with Japan’s highest waterfall cascading down the emerald forest canopy in the distance, you’d be hard-pushed to find a more picturesque temple anywhere.

The waterfall - Nachi-no-Otaki – is 133 meters high and 13 meters wide, and can even be seen from far out at sea.

Whenever you find any images of the Kumano Kodo you’ll see pictures of the Nachi Taisha shrine, and also the Daimon-zaka staircase, which can also be found here. It’s this impressive cobblestone staircase that takes you from the bottom of the valley, to the shrine above.

It’s easy to imagine the history of the place as you stride up the worn steps surrounded by centuries-old trees, stopping to take a breath now and again along the 600 meter, 267 step route.

On the coast, away from the shrines, are a few resort-style hotels, and the local tuna market is well worth a visit. Nachi-Katsuura happens to be the site of Japan’s largest haul of tuna, and you can watch from the balcony as it gets divided up and sold to the highest bidder.

Nachi-Katsuura is also home to the Kii-Katsuura Station, which is served by various JR train services.

Shingu

The last of the sacred shrines, the Kumano Hayatama Taisha, can be found here in Shingu where the Kumano-gawa river empties the tears of the Kii Mountains into the Pacific.

When you visit make sure you see the 800 year old Nagi-no-Ki tree, a testament to the power of nature the shrine represents.

The river is one of the main features of the city, and boat trips regularly depart full of tourists looking to explore the dramatic Dorokyo Gorge, and the numerous waterfalls along the way.

Pilgrims of old used to travel down the river on little wooden boats from Kumano Hongu Taisha, although most walk nowadays.

At its core, the Kumano Kodo is about worshipping nature. The sheer beauty of the place, the serenity, and the feeling of being close to ‘whatever higher being’ you believe in, is the reason pilgrims have been coming here for years.

Shinto

In fact the Shinto religion, one of the oldest and still one of the strongest faiths in Japan, is actually built on this reverence of nature.

Shinto ‘spirits’, or ‘kami’ take the form of natural elements such as wind, rain, mountains, trees and rivers, and the Kumano Kodo shrines were built over time to represent this.

There is no absolute right and wrong in Shinto, and nobody is perfect. It’s an optimistic faith believing that humans are all fundamentally good, and the evil in the world is thought to be caused by spirits.

These evil spirits can be warded off with ritual, hence the large number of festivals and events that involve purification rights, prayers and offerings.

In the Kumano Kodo, many of these are centered around the three sacred shrines, although they’re not purely ‘Shinto’ anymor

Buddhism

Buddhism arrived from China in the 6th Century, and in search of the sacred, many pilgrims ended up in the Kumano region. Shinto and Buddhism began to intermingle, and the shrines were worshipped as a collective, called the Kumano Sanzo.

The story behind the Yumonine Onsen nicely encapsulates this blending of faiths.

Discovered over 1,800 years ago, the restorative nature of the hot spring at Yumonine was a draw long before religion was part of the picture.

As Shinto emerged the Hongo shrine was built, pilgrims performed

purification rights in the springs, and it stayed this way for centuries.

Eventually Buddhism arrives, and the legend says the hot springs began streaming out of a stone statue of Yakushi Nyorai -  the Buddha of Healing and Medicine – which now takes pride of place at the Buddhist Toko-ji Temple.

So you’ve got a respect for nature combined with Shinto and Buddhist shrines,
all happily co-existing in a beautiful natural setting with undisputed health benefits.

No matter what your beliefs the spiritual nature of the Kumano Kodo is
hard to deny. Best to come with an open mind, take it all in, relax, and enjoy.