Nikko, Waterfalls and Yumoto Onsen - 4 Days

Nights in Nikko are spent in ryokans and minshukus — traditional Japanese guesthouses that are an experience in their own right, and one of the real highlights of this walk.

Ryokans are Japanese guesthouses ranging from beautifully preserved historic wooden buildings to more contemporary hybrid styles. Rooms feature tatami mat floors, shoji sliding doors and futon sleeping, creating an atmosphere of quiet, understated elegance. Few rooms have Western-style beds, and ensuites are not always standard — but the heated toilet seats are a welcome touch of luxury. The pride of most ryokans is the bathing area, and many in Nikko are fed by natural onsen hot springs. After a day traversing the sacred mountain trails, soaking in steaming communal pools is the perfect way to end the day.

Minshukus are smaller, family-run guesthouses most commonly found in rural Japan, and Nikko has some wonderful examples. Think of them as a Japanese bed and breakfast — intimate, unpretentious and deeply local. Rooms are traditional Japanese style, meals are home-cooked and shared, and the atmosphere is warm and familial. Bathrooms and toilets are typically shared, but what a minshuku offers in return: genuine hospitality, local connection and a closeness to Japanese culture.

Meals reflect the character of the accommodations themselves. Most nights, dinner is a home-cooked affair using local ingredients. At larger ryokans, this may be a multi-course kaiseki spread or buffet, while more remote stays are accompanied by a carefully prepared bento box. Traditional Japanese breakfasts are served each morning.